Inverdoorn is a private game reserve that deserves to be called stunning, magical, and the most perfect weekend break for spiritual renewal says SHIRLEY DE KOCK GUELLER:
Superlatives have lost their currency so I use them with hesitation to describe Inverdoorn … because this private game reserve just over two hours from Cape Town deserves to be called stunning, magical, the most perfect weekend break for spiritual renewal and much more.
Weary of Corona, weary of staying at home when we had been regular travellers, plus a craving to see wildlife and 10 000 ha with the Big Five and many others, was seriously appealing. Not that there weren’t reservations … You had to pay up front and since the website of the mothership Aquila referenced the problems they had experienced since lockdown we did rather wonder if a couple of months later all would be well. Since we had lucked into a deal that offered a weekend away for less than 50 per cent of the price (a deal which runs to the end of July, by the way), it was a risk worth taking.
We set off from Cape Town without nothing but a booking confirmation – no “we look forward to seeing you” or “here are the directions” letter. We followed the map app (first mistake) and not Google maps and got told the game park was almost in Ceres. We got to Ceres and … nothing, of course. A quick phone call to head office got us the directions – another 40 kays and then 20 on a good gravel road towards Sutherland – and a promise to have Inverdoorn hold our lunch. Anxiety disappeared never to be seen again until we hit traffic on the N1 coming home.
Welcome!
They were waiting for us – a welcome in the reservations centre, a very welcome glass of wine, a lunch of flatbread with a delicious meat and vegetable topping and a gorgeous cheesecake, a handwritten greeting from the general manager in the room and the tranquility of the Tankwa Karoo. Unpacking took a minute, exploring more and then the settling into the silence and the feeling of total privilege. No cell phone reception but there is internet; no television. Soon the sun set on the sparse landscape and the stars came out.
But first there was dinner and a huge revelation. The chef could be in any top establishment – cauliflower soup as tasty as you could wish followed by, in our case one perfectly rare and one perfectly well done fillet with mashed potatoes and a mix of vegetables followed by a dessert we couldn’t even sample so satisfied were we. The option was salmon which was also beautifully presented. Second and last mistake was to order a gin before hand – order wine at once because the food is served almost immediately. Everyone is hungry and arrives in the restaurant on time, 7pm!
Stargazing in the Karoo
The stargazing trip was perfect. Karoo nights can get cold (and even while there are blankets on board and a mask does keep your face warm, take a hat, gloves and a thick jacket), but it was simply spectacular. We were driven to the highest point in the reserve and from there could see the Southern Cross, Scorpio, Orion (or at least parts), not isolated as we see in the city but amidst the glory of myriad other stars. The rising moon modified the darkness but that in itself was also special.
Bed, tired and very happy. The next day brought a good and plentiful breakfast of English, continental or both, and a couple of hours of self-indulgence – a pedicure beside the pool early enough to avoid the chatter of other guests.
Lunch came too early and one couldn’t do justice to two chicken tortillas. One of the first questions on arrival was dietary restrictions so vegetarians and vegans would be catered for. Since macon is served at breakfast instead of bacon, there are no fears there.
Cheetah rehabilitation centre
We decided on another extra and that was to see the cheetahs. Inverdoorn is a rehabilitation centre with four stages and many years before cheetahs are relocated into a game reserve. While the cheetah reserve was fenced off from the rest of the reserve, we were inside with two brothers about 20 metres from the vehicle. Later, in our second game drive, we would see the sisters do a “run” in which they chase a lure to keep fit. Their reward – a chunk of meat because Inverdoorn, as other game parks, is required by law in days of drought to ensure the animals get supplemental feeding and these cheetahs cannot, for now, hunt.
Time for our first game drive (following a full tea for the really hardy ones). The game rangers of Inverdoorn know the park inside out, of course, and our ranger first found a herd of buffalo. Impressive, but not as impressive as the five rhino that found their way to the waterhole. All rhino horns are poisoned and coloured, so they are poacher-proof, one hopes. One of the rhinos had a fake horn over his real horn to protect him further and allow him to fight off other males threatening his females and offspring. There were times I swear when a couple of them made eye contact! Hippos were next, not only wallowing in a waterhole but a mother and child took the trouble to promenade up to a herd of wildebeest which soon moved off, and then walked back into the water. That was the first drive, followed by a hot towel and glass of sherry on arrival back. Dinner was a delicious lamb potjie or vegetable curry (or both!).
Stunning, superb, memorable
One long sleep and we were ready for the morning drive. Coffee and banana bread had never tasted so good. It’s hard to pick out the highlights of that drive – was it the elephant shovelling acacia into his mouth or the anticipation of a larger one coming closer? Was it the giraffes in the iconic savannah picture? Was it the lion and his lioness perched on a hill with the sun rising behind? All those left an indelible impression, truly renewing one’s life force. The lions were behind a fence because being predators they cannot yet roam free. But their majesty could be marvelled at, especially when the lioness stood at the fence ready to jump over to reach a neighbouring wildebeest.
Breakfast and time to leave. Again back to the superlatives – the Inverdoorn staff from management, rangers and waitrons were warm and friendly, knowledgeable and efficient. The accommodation in small cabins, perfect. The food .. well enough said. Altogether this adds up to more superlatives – stunning, superb, memorable.
WS
