REVIEW: Karen Rutter
Turns out the Rocherpan Nature Reserve is not just for twitchers. Yes, we saw three superb hides for bird-watching, and the flamingos on the vlei put on a display worthy of an Animal Planet feature. But it’s not solely the 183 bird species that attract visitors to this unpretentious patch up the Cape West Coast. There is, too, a subtle calmness, a quiet centre that settles the heart and slows things down, which makes the space special.
But it’s not necessarily obvious, upon first arrival. The Rocherpan is made up of more than 1000 hectares of coastal marine reserve, with a lumpy line of dunes keeping the crisp Atlantic on one side, sandveld and vlei on the other. This combo means that water birds are prolific. But it is also means, being up the West Coast, that the sea water is freezing, and the wind strength is pumping. In summer, certainly. Unlike other Cape Nature camps, like the always-booked-up Kogelberg reserve with its dramatic mountain shoulders and sparkly river pools, there’s nothing glaringly postcard-like about the Rocherpan. At first, anyway.
First impressions can deceive
And then you sit on the deck of your cabin, and watch herringbone patterns form in the clouds above, while the sinking sun turns the fynbos cerise and the wind suddenly drops. And you realise that this is a pretty fine place to be, right here, right now.
The reserve features eight self-catering units, four of which are newly-designed eco-cabins. We stayed in Coot – they’re all named after birds – and loved the sleek yet clever use of space, light and resources (including the no-flush loos). The units are designed so you can’t actually see your neighbours (unless you spy), and the wooden decks are perfect for having a braai at night, or an early-morning yoga session.
While we chose a more sedentary stay, there are plenty of active options to check out: hiking and trail running (along the beach, or through the sandveld, or both), mountain biking (you can bring your own wheels or hire ‘em), whale watching (in season), picnicking at select spots, and swimming (yes, we did this – the unblemished spread of unpopulated beach screams out for a skinny dip). We also brought binoculars and a Roberts guide and got into a froth over the names of all the different LBJs*.
But mainly we chilled – read books, drank wine, made fabby food, quietly talked and sometimes snoozed. All the while facing that afore-mentioned vlei with its flamingos. Oh, and did I mention it was full moon while we were there? Not too shabby, at all.
The Rocherpan Nature Reserve is family-friendly, caters to those living with disabilities, is reasonably close to Cape Town (not a mega-drive) and most importantly, offers a chance to recharge stressed city nerves. Plus, if you are actually a proud twitcher, you’ll probably get a chance to tick off some previously unsighted species.
Where: Rocherpan Nature Reserve is situated 25km north of Velddrif on the coastal road. Take the R27 up to Velddrif, then follow the signs to Elands Bay
What to bring: Food, drink, drinking water (or boil what is available), swimming costume, binoculars, mountain bike/hiking boots/trail takkies (depending on your activity tastes). The self-catering units have everything you need for sleeping, lazing, cooking etc
Book: 021 483 0190
Visit: Cape Nature
*Little Brown Jobs – those innumerable small birds that all look the same to the uninformed eye!
WS
